Life can be chock-full of stress. Some folks go to the gym, some meditate and some medicate for relief. How about going to a place where you can chill out and get a really good meal, too? Natasha's Cafe in downtown Lexington is just such a respite. This charming eatery, which opened on Esplanade almost two years ago, shares space with its business sibling, the eclectic Balagula Boutique.

From the exotically chic dining area to the nicely spaced tables to the unobtrusive background music, the ambience is low-key. The pleasant aura extends to the staff, the menu and the service. Natasha's also has the best silverware in the area.

Since last fall the fare at Natasha's, an international cuisine not dominated by any one theme, has been the creation of chef Anthony Schwartz. His combinations of herbs, spices and flavors give this limited menu a wide range of palate-pleasing selections.

During a recent dinner visit, my companions and I spent a perfectly delightful couple of hours menu-sampling. We began with a bottle of Luna di Luna's blend of chardonnay and pinot grigio ($24) from the substantial beverage menu. Substantial in the number of varietals, not in the depth of choices, for there is only one per type of wine. All selections are available by the glass or bottle and are not overpriced.

Beer choices are similarly scant but are international in scope. Non-alcoholic options include Turkish coffees, espresso, coffee, tea, shakes, floats, sodas and sparkling juices.

For starters we selected spring ravioli ($12), beef borscht ($6) and the continental salad ($5). The ravioli was a luscious flavor combination with a butternut squash and bleu cheese filling encased in a won ton-type package. The accompanying coconut cream sauce completed this beautifully flavored dish.

The salad consisted of fresh, crisp greens topped with that never-fail combo of diced pear, walnuts and bleu cheese. A splash of balsamic vinaigrette and tomato wedges brought it together nicely.

Substantial chunks of tender beef gave added girth to the borscht. The beet-infused broth maintained the vibrant deep red of the earthy root vegetable. Onion and green peppers joined copious shreds of carrot and cabbage in this tasty melange of textures and flavors. Topping off this eye-pleasing dish was an ample sprinkling of fresh parsley.

My entree of pork Tyrnovo ($17, from the seasonal menu, which has since changed) came with the soup du jour, a creamy potato with roasted fennel and dill. Schwartz certainly has a way with soups, as this proved subtle and delicious.

The Mandarin yogurt-marinated pork was served over bulgur pilaf and topped with fruit chutney. The flavorful meat could have been pulled from the heat a minute or two earlier as it was a tad dry. But the chutney and the pilaf carried enough moisture to make it a success.

One of my dining companions selected smoked duck risotto ($14, another item from the old menu). The duck had a wonderfully rich flavor and paired nicely with dried cranberries, sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and green beans. The risotto could have used one more stir with the liquid to eliminate the remaining crunch and give it the creaminess to which it aspired.

My other dining partner chose Hungarian goulash ($15). The braised beef was tender and full of flavor gleaned from the green peppers, tomatoes and paprika with which it was stewed. Mashed potatoes served as the base for this tasty dish.

For dessert, we split the coconut creme brulee with green tea syrup ($6). The rich custard was perfectly light and had great coconut flavor. The syrup made a nice, mild addition.

Many dinner items are also offered on the lunch buffet. For $6.50 a pound, a good sampling of dishes can be enjoyed without draining your wallet. A la carte sandwiches are also available.

If unwinding is on your to-do list, try Natasha's Cafe.

Dinner for three (with a bottle of wine), including tax but not tip, was $104.94.

Restaurant review